Playing with Your Dog

Want to build a stronger connection with your dog, provide enrichment, learn what brings him joy, and train in a fun way? Play!

Playing With Your Dog

Tips

Pay attention to his body language. He’ll tell you what he likes and dislikes, and whether any given activity is appropriate for him. Pay close attention to signs of over-arousal, such as inability to give you eye contact, focus on you, or perform simple skills he knows such as “sit” or “touch”; wide or darty eyes, excessive barking, or taking toys or treats from you roughly (shark mouth).

Listen to your dog when he says “no thanks”. He might be busy doing something else that is a higher priority to him, or he simply might not be into a particular game or toy. Try again later, and respect his wishes if it’s a “no”.

Use toys best matched to him. He might be a dog who loves fetching balls, but chasing a frisbee or playing with a flirt pole may be things that also bring him joy.

Use easily chewed toys (e.g. stuffed toys) with caution. Stuffies are a favorite of many dogs, but supervise until you know how he will play with them. Toys with stuffing and squeakers are easily chewed up and a potential choking and swallowing risk. Solid toys, such as Kongs, are safer until you know the habits of your dog.

Teach “drop it”. This is an important skill when the dog has items that are not toys, and for polite interactive play with legal things. Don’t take items from the dog’s mouth, as that often turns into an unintended game of tug, and may result in a bite. Video: The Fair Trade Approach to Teaching a Dog to ‘Drop It’ (Fear Free Happy Homes)

Adjust play to the dog’s energy level. If the dog is really amped up, bring him down with play that is a step or two down in the amount of action and arousal. Don’t expect him to be able to quickly hit the brakes and shift directly into calm play. Stepping down arousal is especially important with adolescent dogs and those who struggle with overstimulation. For example, follow a rousing game of fetch or tug with a series of hand targeting, or “find it” at varying distances, and then a quiet treat scatter.

Avoid too much of a good thing. Play behavior shouldn’t be obsessive. For example, a dog who wants to play fetch endlessly results in one who can’t un-spin himself emotionally from the excitement of the game, and the benefits of exercise are erased in his over-cooked brain. Play for a little while, then do something else to ease the dog down mentally and emotionally. For some dogs, some activities may be too stimulating if they are unable to settle or engage with you appropriately. Fetch with a ball might be too much, but perhaps he could play a calmer inside game of retrieving a stuffed toy instead. Also, fetch doesn’t have to be as far as you can throw. Try short tosses, or roll the ball, and wait for a sit or down before throwing again.

Inappropriate behavior stops the fun. Mouthiness, jumping up on you, grabbing clothing, body slamming, etc. stops the play. Become motionless or calmly separate yourself from the dog and wait for him to settle. You might toss treats for him to forage, which can help to deescalate arousal.

Never use laser pointers as a toy. The frustration of chasing and never catching creates high levels of frustration, and may lead to obsessive behaviors. Laser Pointers: More Frustration Than Fun – American Kennel Club

Toys & Play

Fetch/Frisbee

Balls: Use balls specifically made for dogs (e.g. Chuck It or Kong) rather than tennis balls, which can break apart and be consumed.

Frisbees: Fun for dogs who like to track in the air and catch. Use one made for dogs (fabric or flexible plastic) instead of hard plastic, which can chip teeth. Avoid throwing high, as dogs can injure themselves jumping and twisting.

Other toys: The Holee Roller is a nice option for dogs who don't care for balls. Made of squishy rubber, it's easy to throw, the many holes make it tempting to grab and shake, and it can be used as a tug toy for light tuggers. Chuck-It bumpers and Kong Wubba can be used in water as they float.

Tips:

Play with multiple toys if the dog doesn’t have a “drop it” behavior. "Two Ball Fetch" requires that he drop the first ball in order to retrieve the second.
Try different items to find what works for an individual dog. Not all dogs love balls; try tossing a stuffed toy instead.

Tug

Tug is a great mutual play game. Let’s get myths out of the way: it doesn’t cause aggression or “dominance”, and you don’t need to “win” to show him that you’re in charge. Let him win often; it’s no fun playing if you’re always on the losing end.

Tug is initiated by the human, and play stops if teeth touch your hand (even by accident).
For mouthy players, use a long tug toy with knots at either end. Hold one end in each hand, offering him the middle. This makes it easier to avoid his mouth (and keep your hands out of the slimy parts). If he “hikes up” on the rope, this prevents him from swinging the end of a knotted rope like a club.
It’s helpful if he has a “drop” cue in his repertoire, but you can use treats to trade for the tug to teach or strengthen the behavior.
Pull directly away from him and then give some slack back towards him. Don’t use the rope to shake his head back and forth. Let him do the shaking.
Pick up tug toys when not in use. Rope and fleece toys are dangerous if shredded and ingested.

Video: How to Play Tug with Your Dog (the Right Way): Toy Play Skills (Doggy U)

Flirt Pole

This is a pole with a light rope and toy attached, which you use to mimic the movement of a critter. There are easy DIY options, as well as commercially-available varieties (make sure you get one for dogs, and not for cats!) Best to teach a “drop” cue before playing, so you don’t create a tug-of-war. Allow the dog to “catch” his prey, as chasing and never getting is frustrating. Keep the toy on the ground, and avoid “flying” it in the air; the dog will jump for it and can injure himself. You’re mimicking the path of a squirrel or a bunny, not a kangaroo. Make sure the dog is using both sides of his body; alternate the direction of the lure so he’s not always running in a one-way circle.

It’s a good idea to let him warm up a bit before playing with a flirt pole. Sprinkle some kibble in the yard, play a little recall game, etc.

Video: How to Use a Flirt Pole for Dogs (this dog has an additional cute behavior of bringing the pole back to the human! PhD level skill!)

Social Play

This is about developing two-way communication with your dog using play. It’s unstructured and with few rules other than both parties having fun goofing around together. If you both have happy, relaxed bodies and silly grins, you’re doing it right.

It’s a prerequisite that he already likes to interact with you. While it can be done (carefully) with dogs who are mouthy or easily aroused, it’s harder to do without getting undesirable behavior.

“The Play Way” uses play as a way to help shy, fearful and reactive dogs. The Play Way for Shy and Fearful Dogs (Whole Dog Journal)

Scent Games

Scent games are wonderful for every dog, regardless of age or physical abilities. Sniffing taps into one of the dog’s most powerful innate skills, and satisfies a deeply embedded need. Dogs’ noses are incredible! Sniffing games are perfect for shy or anxious dogs, dogs with physical limitations, and those who struggle being around other dogs. Because scent games are entirely driven by the dog – the human just sets up the environment and steps back – he gains confidence and has fun while doing one of the most doggy things he can do.

Let him work the puzzle; only help him if he’s really stuck. You’ll be amazed by what he can do. Stop while he’s still having fun; you want him to be eager to play next time.

Note: Sniffing this intensely uses a lot of moisture in the dog’s mouth and nasal passages, and can be dehydrating. Provide ample water before and after each session.

Box Game:

Scatter a few boxes in a small area, and put a treat or kibble in each. Release the dog to find. Repeat.

As he is successful, make it harder:

Put treats in only one or two boxes.
Arrange boxes on different levels, stack them one atop the other, or partially close them.
Have the dog out of the room while you set up the course.
Use two rooms, then multiple rooms

Which Hand?

Put a treat in one hand while the dog watches, close your fists and ask “which one?” He’ll paw or nose at your hand to guess.

Make it harder: put the treat in your hand behind your back, and show him your hands, fists partially closed, then completely closed.

Find the Thing:

Show him a familiar object, such as a favorite toy, and hide it, first in plain sight, then in increasingly harder, hidden spots. Release him to find. This works best with two people (one to detain the dog while the other does the hide), or with a dog who has a good “stay” on cue. For added interest (to you and to him!) drag the item along the floor, furniture and walls on your way to the hiding spot, and watch as his nose tracks the scent.

Hide and Seek:

Play with two people, or first teach the dog a solid “wait” behavior. Hide yourself, first in an easy, visible place, and use your recall cue or “find me” to call him, and reward with treats and a praise party. Make it harder by hiding in less obvious places, then in other rooms. This can also be played in the yard by hiding behind trees, shrubbery or structures. It is a great way to strengthen his recall cue.

Kibble/Treat Scatter:

For shy or fearful dogs, sometimes it’s enough for them just to hunt for food scattered across the floor. You can also set up a free work course, which allows him to interact with a variety of safe objects while he searches. Video: Free Work set up (Free Work designed by Sarah Fisher)

Sniffing Games (Whole Dog Journal)
Scent Games For Dogs (Whole Dog Journal)
Video: Nose Work Games for Dogs (Dogkind)
Video: "Find it" for Reactive Dogs Part 1 (Dogkind)

Training Games

If you and your dog enjoy the process of training (you should, if you’re doing it right!), try teaching them new skills. Many “trick” behaviors are actually useful behaviors to have in their repertoire. Note: Many of these trainers use a clicker to mark the desired behavior, but you can use a word such as “yes!” or “good!”

Examples:

Hand targeting “touch”
- Susan Garrett’s Hand Target: Dog Training Games Within Games (Dogs That)
“Face in things” - Teach them to put their face in a variety of objects. Can be used for costume items, e-collars (medical anti-lick collars/cones), muzzles, etc.
Chin rest
- Teach Your Dog a Chin Rest Trick!
Foot targeting or “feet in things” - Teach them to put their feet in different things. Might be used to have them stick their feet in a bucket of water to rinse their paws.
- Rear foot target using a mat Dog Tricks: Paw Targeting
Backing up
- Teaching Your Dog The Back Up Trick: Tips, Criteria, Strategy (Dogs That)
Play Bow

3 Easy Tricks Every Dog Should Know #68 - Hand Target, Perch Work, Wave (Dogs That)

Additional Resources

Dog Play

The Play Way for Shy and Fearful Dogs (Whole Dog Journal)

Appropriate Play With Your Dog (Positively)

Video: Our Favorite Enrichment Games For Fearful Dogs

Video: Puppy Essentials - The Toys You Actually NEED! (Doggy U)

DISCLAIMER: These materials are provided for informational and educational purposes only and do not constitute professional veterinary, behavioral, or legal advice. Users should consult with qualified professionals before implementing any training technique that may affect the health, safety, or wellbeing of any animal or person.

By using these materials, you acknowledge and agree that:

Dog training involves inherent risks, including but not limited to, physical injury to humans and animals, property damage, and emotional distress.
Each dog is unique and may respond differently to training techniques.
Golden Bond Rescue cannot guarantee the safety, effectiveness, or results of any training method described in these materials.
You assume full responsibility for assessing the appropriateness of any training technique for your specific situation.

Golden Bond Rescue hereby expressly disclaims all liability for any injuries, damages, or losses of any kind that may occur to any person, animal, or property as a result of using, implementing, or following any techniques, methods, guidance, instructions, or recommendations contained herein.