House-Training

Supervise and limit access in the home. Dogs typically don’t like soiling their “den” area, which makes crate training effective. If not confined in a crate, keep the dog in a smaller area.  This makes it easier to supervise him, and to slowly expand his areas of freedom as he learns not to “go” in the house.

• For easier clean up, start in an area that isn’t carpeted.
• When you can’t directly supervise the dog, use a crate or x-pen, or baby gate to confine him to a smaller area of the house such as a laundry room or hallway, or use a leash to tether him close to you so you can watch for signals.
• Gradually relax restrictions when he’s had at least three days of 100% success, but keep a close watch, and reinstate the process if he has an accident. 

Watch for signs. Restlessness, going to the door, circling or pacing, “hyperactive”, coming to you and seeming to want attention but not relaxing when petted, pawing at you, and whining are all signs that it’s time for a trip outside.

• Think about the dog’s “need to go” signals in terms of developing two-way communication. It’s a clear message when the dog comes to you. It’s harder to ignore steamy dog breath than a plaintive look in another room. Until you know his signals, take the dog out when he comes to you for attention, even if he seems to be seeking petting, rather than waiting for the next behavior, which could be squatting or lifting a leg.
• Memorize the motto (and stick to it) - When in doubt, let’s go out. It’s easy to be fooled into thinking the dog may be asking for petting when he really just needs to potty.

Go out often. In the beginning, don’t count on him telling you when he needs to go. Anticipate the need and offer frequent, consistent opportunities to go out: after eating, waking, play and naps, and in the first few days, every hour or two.

• Keep track of output. It’s very helpful to have the dog on the leash so you know what they have or haven’t done, how much, and what it looks like.
• If he seems to prefer one area of the yard, take him to that spot first. If you have a resident dog, lead the foster dog to your dog’s favorite spots. Scent is a compelling lure!

Reward effectively. Reward immediately after he finishes eliminating.

• Food reinforcement is a higher reward than praise. Reward generously each time he does his business in a desired area.
• Sniffing or playing outside is a reinforcer. Don’t insist he immediately march back inside after a successful business trip. Dogs easily learn to “ask to potty” just for the opportunity to go outside. Allowing natural reinforcers after business reduces this likelihood.
• Add a cue such as “go potty” when he’s reliably doing the behavior. Wait until he’s at least halfway through his urine stream/defecating, so as not to interrupt him in the process. 

No punishment - EVER. Rubbing his nose in it, yelling or other methods intended to “show him his mistake” only confuse and stress him, and don’t teach him that doing business outside is the behavior you want. Punishment often creates a dog who’s fearful of you, and he will hide toileting surprises in order to stay safe.

• If you catch the dog having an accident, interrupt him with a happy voice and take him outside to finish. 
• If you don’t catch him in the act, whistle a happy tune while you clean up the mess, reminding yourself to be more observant next time.

Clean up messes with a scent neutralizing product. E.g. Nature's Miracle.