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Dog Play

Nothing is more fun than watching two (or more) dogs who enjoy playing together. There is pure joy in healthy play, but it’s often misunderstood. Play can be loud, sound ferocious, and look a lot like fighting. Dog play mimics the real thing; it’s “practice” for the ancient habits of stalking, chasing, fighting, pinning, killing, tearing apart food and mating. 

First and foremost, good play needs familiarity and trust. While two random dogs may hit it off at the dog park, most often dogs are like people. In order to really let down their hair, they need to feel that their playmate is trustworthy, fun, and that play will be fair and safe. Play doesn’t happen if one partner feels he may be deceived. There are no winners and losers; each player has a roughly equal chance of “winning”, and roles are reversed often. 

Play usually starts with a play signal, such as a play bow, or some version of it. This may be the full bow, front paws outstretched and back arched with butt in the air, or merely a quick slap of the front paws on the ground. The play bow is like a handshake or a wink; everything from here on out is meant in good fun. Play bows may be accompanied by a play face; an open-mouthed invitation to tussle. Play bows are often repeated throughout play, as a way to reestablish the “no harm intended” agreement. Play face, or a goofy open-mouthed expression, is another play signal.

MARS

Play behavior between dogs can be loud with growling, biting and chasing. Use MARS to recognize appropriate play behavior between dogs and when you need to intervene.

Meta-Signals: Communication that informs the intention to play - play bows, bouncy movement, play faces. Movements and facial expressions are comically exaggerated. 

Activity Shifts: Periodically changing the activity, e.g. chasing turns to wrestling, and repeating meta-signals to indicate continued intention to play.

Role Reversal: Being chased or being the chaser. Being on top during wrestling or on the bottom. If the meta signals are clear, it’s okay if this isn’t a perfect balance as long as meta-signals are clear. Some dogs prefer to be chased, and others may like being the chaser. 

Self-Handicapping: Play biting without significant force. Bigger dogs adjusting to play with smaller/weaker dogs by lying down, running slower, or playing more gently. 

If you’re unsure if both dogs are willing participants in play, do a consent test by separating them and see if they choose to re-engage in play.

What to look for in healthy play:  

  • Loose body language
  • Comical, exaggerated faces
  • Modified, ineffectual movements
    • Running at less than full speed
    • Bouncy movements
    • Open-mouthed “bites”
    • Bite-shakes that aren’t full intensity
  • Role reversals - the chase-ee becomes the chaser, etc.
    • May not be 50/50; some dogs prefer to chase or be chased, be on the top or bottom
  • Self-handicapping 
    • A larger dog runs slower so the smaller one can keep up
    • An adult dog plays tug with a puppy while lying down, reducing the force of the tug
  • Repetition - the same behavior happens over and over, especially 
    • Head tosses
    • Paw raises
    • Bounces
    • Play bows
  • Behaviors happening in reverse order to the real thing, e.g. bite-shake followed by chase
  • Frequent, spontaneous breaks in the action
  • “Cooling off” behaviors, such as sniffing the ground, blinking, sneezing, arcing away from each other, self-grooming

Types of Play

Dogs have differing play styles. Some dogs prefer to chase and/or be chased. Others love a good game of roughhousing, including body slams and barrel rolls. Many dogs love to engage in versions of biting, usually to the jowls, face, scruff, paws and legs, or tail. Most dogs like a combo, but have definite preferences. 

  • Chasing - mimics prey/predator
    • Both pursuer and pursued run at reduced speeds
    • Loose body language
    • Chasee often looks over shoulder to see if he needs to invite more play
    • Use obstacles (trees, shrubbery, bench, human) as turning points or temp hiding places
    • Often returns to starting place
    • Ends when one dog stops
    • Role reversal - either at stopping point, or during chase
    • Being caught may turn into wrestling or bitey face
    • May use pretend prey, such as stick or other object, to initiate play
  • Play Fighting - “ritualized tussles”
    • Initiated by playful pouncing/play biting
    • Can be prone (one dog on his back, the other on top, or both on sides), on all fours, or on hind legs (“boxing”)
    • Exaggerated mouthing, open-mouthed comical expressions, growling, head-bobbing 
    • Biting (and shaking) scruff, lips, jowls, legs, tail
  • Tugging Games - mimics tearing apart killed prey
    • Growling, shaking the object
    • May go after smaller pieces as secondary prey
    • Often leads to wrestling or games of bitey-face

Consent Testing

 Video: Dog Dog Play Part 2 - Consent Testing (Jane Sigsworth)

Even when dogs are enjoying play, they should still take breaks. They may stop and shake off and walk away, or dive back in for more. Either way, it should be their choice. 

You can use a consent test to ask both dogs if they are having fun. Distract them away from play by calling their names, making kissy noises, patting your legs or gently leading them away with leashes. Give each of them a couple of minutes to cool off. During this time, ask for simple behaviors they know, such as sit, down, touch, and reward for success. Then release them back to play, and watch what each dog does. If they both go at it with enthusiasm, great! Everyone is having a good time. However, if one dog seems hesitant, hangs back, hides behind you or another object, or exhibits signs of stress, that dog has had enough for now, and play should stop. Using consent testing periodically during play sessions ensures that both dogs have the chance to say “no thanks”, and gives you the ability to maintain control before play tips over into over arousal. 

Safe Play

Dogs can be strangled during play if one dog gets their jaws stuck in the other dog's collar. This can happen very fast; you may not be able to release the collar in time even if you react immediately.

Breakaway dog collars, e.g., the PetSafe KeepSafe collar, allow you to keep ID on the dog. They have a weak link within the collar that will break if force is applied. There are rings on either side of the breakaway segment, so a leash clipped to both rings eliminates the "breakaway" feature.

Another option, if appropriate, is to play naked. Take collars off during play to eliminate this risk.

Copyright 2025, Jeanne Spreen and Angela Amundson. All rights reserved. Please ask us before reproducing in any way. Please link to the articles rather than copying content to your site. Thank you.

DISCLAIMER: These materials are provided for informational and educational purposes only and do not constitute professional veterinary, behavioral, or legal advice. Users should consult with qualified professionals before implementing any training technique that may affect the health, safety, or wellbeing of any animal or person.

By using these materials, you acknowledge and agree that:

  1. Dog training involves inherent risks, including but not limited to, physical injury to humans and animals, property damage, and emotional distress.
  2. Each dog is unique and may respond differently to training techniques.
  3. Golden Bond Rescue cannot guarantee the safety, effectiveness, or results of any training method described in these materials.
  4. You assume full responsibility for assessing the appropriateness of any training technique for your specific situation.

Golden Bond Rescue hereby expressly disclaims all liability for any injuries, damages, or losses of any kind that may occur to any person, animal, or property as a result of using, implementing, or following any techniques, methods, guidance, instructions, or recommendations contained herein.