Crate Training

Introduction

Some rehomed dogs are already crate trained, which is a huge bonus for you. However, many are not, or have mixed feelings about being confined in a crate. To clarify, “crate trained” means the dog loves his crate, seeks it out to sleep and rest, and sees it as his safe, happy place. “Um, I’ll go in, but I’m not gonna love it” is not enough.

Crate training has two key components:

1) The dog being comfortable with confinement, and

2) The dog is comfortable when alone and confined.

Why crate train a dog?

Many dogs like having a quiet place of their own where they can sleep and not be bothered.
Useful for house training as the puppy or adult dog is unlikely to soil their crate.
As a management tool to keep the dog in a safe place when he can’t be supervised, or in situations when he might behave in an undesirable way such as counter surfing during meal prep or jumping up on visitors.
He may need to be confined at the vet’s office, for recovery from surgery, or for travel; being comfortable when crated is a huge benefit for him in these situations.

Parameters for Crate Use

Adult dogs commonly sleep between 12 to 18 hours a day, divided into an overnight block and multiple naps of 30 minutes to 2 hours with active periods in between. A healthy, adult dog should be able to comfortably stay in a crate overnight while he’s sleeping.

The crate isn’t a place to park a dog and forget about his needs. A dog may be able to stay confined 8 hours overnight, but during the day, crate for a maximum of 4 hours. Be sure to provide opportunities for exercise and mental enrichment throughout the day.

Under normal circumstances, a dog will not need water in his crate overnight or when crated for a few hours. Make sure he has access to water when he isn’t crated, and that he has ample opportunities to potty – both kinds – before and after being confined.

Setting Up For Success

Make the crate a comfortable place to be. Provide a comfortable mat or dog bed. Make sure the crate is appropriately sized; he should be able to comfortably stand up, turn around and stretch out. If he’s not using the crate because he has access to a more comfortable option outside of the crate, you may need to remove dog beds or other tempting nap spots and prevent access to sofas or human beds.

Some dogs benefit from a covered crate, which reduces outside stimulation and encourages rest. If your new dog is finding it hard to settle in his crate, try covering it with a sheet or light blanket. This makes it warmer, darker and cozier inside. Some dogs find this soothing; others will be alarmed by it. You can start by covering just the top, or by putting the sheet on once he’s asleep, so he gradually becomes used to it. Some dogs may pull the blanket through the grids on a wire crate and chew the fabric. A large cardboard box with the bottom and one side removed is a good alternative.

Meet exercise and toileting needs before expecting him to settle in a crate. The discomfort of a filling bladder won’t make for a dog who can settle.

Location is important. A dog might prefer to be confined in a quiet location or in a location closer to household activity. Video: Crate training tips “Crate Placement Considerations” (Dogkind)

Timing matters. Don’t expect him to be calm when it’s clear that he’s missing out on fun. Try to pick times to confine him that align with his natural sleep patterns, e.g. nap time after a morning walk. Make sure that household activities aren’t swirling around him while he tries to settle; keep other animals out of his crate area, provide white noise, turn down lights, etc.

Training Plan (All Good Things Happen to Dogs in Crates)

Teach him to be comfortable entering the crate.

Mark and reward any time he approaches, sniffs, or is curious about the crate.
Toss a few treats inside any time you catch him going into the crate.
Being careful not to lure him into something scary. Try putting a treat (or his meal) near the crate, then just inside the crate, and finally, further inside the crate.
Look signs of “yippee” before making it harder (putting the food farther inside)
Play the “In-N-Out Burger Game”
- Toss a treat inside
- When he’s gone inside to eat the treat, toss another one outside the crate
- Repeat, repeat, repeat
- Keep the pace fast, the mood fun, and stop if you see any hesitancy on his part
Be a “treat fairy” and leave treats inside the crate when he’s not looking. He’ll start to go into the crate to look for special deliveries made into his “mailbox”.
Make wanting to get into the crate his idea. Put a food enrichment item, fun toy, or super yummy treats inside with him outside the crate, close the door, and wait until he’s really curious (but not frustrated) before opening the door to allow him to enjoy his prize. You may need to make a show of it; use your best party voice and animated body language when placing the toy.

Teach him to accept the door being closed.

While he’s happily eating treats or a meal inside, over time, gradually close the door (e.g., half way, then all the way but don’t latch, etc.)
After he’s completely comfortable eating with the door shut, close the latch, but open it before he’s finished eating – avoid creating the icky feeling of being trapped.
Once he’s fine with being inside with the door closed and latched, sweeten the idea that “good stuff happens in crates” by tossing a few treats inside before opening the door.

Teach him to enjoy spending time in the crate. Build duration.

Feed all meals in the crate.
Offer fun interactive toys filled with food or treats while he’s inside the crate.
- Lickable enrichment items are good because licking is a calming activity for dogs.
- Provide things that take longer to consume, such as a frozen Kong instead of one merely slathered with peanut butter.
- Choose items that are safe without supervision. Kongs, Toppls, Fun Feeder puzzle bowls, and Pupsicles are good choices. Licky mats and stuffed toys are easily shredded and may be consumed, which can be dangerous.
Watch for signs of building frustration, such as restlessness. Don’t let him become distressed, which will undo all the good progress you’ve made.

Make sure to let him out before he starts protesting. Especially in the morning, the time to open the door is the moment he starts stirring, before he’s had a chance to develop a full-blown revolt. This will decrease the chances of creating a “ring for service” behavior (I whine/bark/paw at the door = the human responds).

Teach him a polite exit strategy. Most dogs learn very quickly: When I sit, the magic door opens. If I paw at the crate door, spin or jump, nothing happens. If he’s already active and protesting, wait for a split second of calm before opening the door. Over time, slowly increase the duration of calm behavior before the door opens. Having him exit calmly makes it easier to clip on a leash, and keeps his general arousal at a level that’s comfortable and manageable for both of you.

Make crate time a normal part of the day, not just when you’re leaving, or when he’s over aroused and needs a time out. Pairing it only with negative experiences, like your absence or the end of play goes against the message you’re working so hard to send: crates = good stuff. The more you can normalize his crate time, the more it will become an integral and comfortable part of his routine.

Troubleshooting

Never send him to the crate in anger or frustration. If you’re using it as a behavior “time out” once he’s fully crate-trained, make sure you check your attitude beforehand, and show him to his crate calmly and gently.

Crates should not create anxiety . We never want to increase stress by confining a dog, so it’s important to pay attention to his body language. If he becomes increasingly agitated, shows fearful or anxious body language such as whining, barking, drooling, pacing, spinning, frantically pawing at the crate or other obvious signs of stress, that’s a clear warning that he’s approaching panic mode. A dog with this reaction should not be confined in a crate until the cause of his stress is addressed, and you make more progress creating a positive association with his crate. Dogs who struggle with being alone (separation anxiety/isolation distress) should never be crated in your absence unless they are 100% in love with their crate, as they can do self harm trying to escape.

For a dog who fusses about being crated but doesn’t show anxiety:

Give him some time to settle, but don’t let it go on for long. 5-10 minutes of minor protesting (whining, pawing, etc) is fine, but more than that just increases his stress (and likely yours as well) and defeats the purpose of restful, contented crate time. Let him out, make sure he doesn’t need to toilet, and try again in a few minutes.
Give him safe enrichment items to enjoy in the crate. It is helpful to have a couple of items to choose from. For example: something with wet food to lick and something with frozen food that will last longer.
If you’re crating him overnight, being closer to you may help him settle. Try resting near him or move his crate next to your bed or sofa. For small dogs or puppies, you can put the crate on your nightstand or two chairs nearby.
While you work on crate training, use an alternative confinement method whenever possible.

If you don’t have an alternative and need safe confinement, you might have to crate him. This will set back crate training, but sometimes trade offs are necessary. Do not do this if his body language says “I’m freaked out” as there is a risk that he’ll harm himself trying to get free.

Confinement Alternatives

Some confinement options for dogs who aren’t comfortable being crated:

Confine the dog in an exercise pen (x-pen) or wooden, multi-panel pet gate.
Put an exercise pen, or x-pen, around the crate and leave the crate door open.
Confine him in a small room (such as the laundry area). Use a baby gate or x-pen across the doorway; this makes the space less isolating and saves a closed door from being scratched.
Use a tether (leash) to attach him to you or a piece of furniture, so you can keep an eye on him.

Video: Alternatives To Crates (Dogkind)

Additional Resources

Welcome Home: How to Crate Train Your New Dog or Puppy (Fear Free Happy Homes)

What You Need to Know About Crates and Your Dog (Fear Free Happy Homes)

One Tail at a Time - Ask a Trainer - Crate training your dog (Kiki Yablon)

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